As January rolls around the bend into February, I think all of us here in the North-east are feeling a bit like Johnny Cash in his classic Folsom Prison Blues – “I ain’t seen the sunshine since I don’t know when”. We’re now into our fourth week of unbroken high winds, perpetual rain and permanently overcast skies, and at the time of writing the medium-range forecast is for no change until at least mid-month. We might not be stuck in Folsom Prison, but at the moment we do feel stuck in a bit of a rut, the same dreich and dreary groundhog day being replayed over and over and over. In Johnny’s immortal words, time keeps draggin’ on…

During a particularly violent period of gales early in the week, Catriona headed over to the north-eastern boundary of the Reserve at Perthudden with the hand-held anemometer, to try and get an idea of the windspeed. The 61.6 mph she recorded wasn’t actually the strongest gust, but it was the strongest gust in which she could operate the anemometer in one hand and the phone camera in the other, while actually remaining on her feet.

At the opposite end of the Reserve, wind-lashed estuary and beach have been undergoing a good deal of, er, ‘re-modelling’. Seen from the high dunes south of the Ythan mouth, the landscape appeared raw and barren, with wind-drifted sand covering much of the lower-lying grassland.

On the estuary foreshore, the windward-facing dunes bordering the golf course at Newburgh had endured some considerable erosion, with an eight-foot sand cliff having formed in places where the dunes had been undercut. Strong onshore winds allied to high spring tides tend to generate powerful wave action on the shore, invariably leading to erosion on such a dynamic and soft coastline as ours.

The eroded dunes provide an unusual opportunity to see how Marram Grass ‘works’. We often refer to this plant as one of the building-blocks of Forvie, due to its ability to colonise, and thence stabilise, windblown sand. Marram Grass spreads by rhizomes – subterranean stems – which extend outwards in all directions, periodically pushing shoots upwards through the loose sand, each of which then develops into a new tussock. This network of rhizomes knits together the loose substrate, while the tussocks above trap further windblown sand, forming dunes of ever-increasing height. As the sand accumulates, the grass continues growing upwards towards the light, and the eventual result can be dunes of prodigious height – and rhizomes of prodigious length!

As we’re fond of saying here, the powerful forces of wind and tide take with one hand, and give back with the other – meaning that when there’s erosion going on, there’ll be deposition happening somewhere else. While the windward dunes and shores are currently giving up material, so the leeward hollows are accumulating it. Unfortunately, one of the major ‘beneficiaries’, for want of a better word, has been the dune slack which carries the boardwalk to the seal viewpoint at Newburgh beach.


The low-level viewpoint lies immediately north-west of some high and open dunes, and following three weeks of relentless and powerful south-easterly winds, those dunes have marched down to meet it. By Wednesday there must have been between upwards of ten tons of sand smothering the viewpoint, and when (or indeed if?!) these winds finally abate, it’ll be a monumental job to get it all cleared.


The Newburgh & Ythan Community Trust, who own and maintain the boardwalk and viewpoint, have our sympathies – we know all too well the difficulties of maintaining infrastructure in the dynamic landscape of South Forvie – and when the time comes, we’ll be there to help out and do our share of the shovelling. With the excesses of the Christmas break not far behind us, I for one could to with the extra exercise!

All the while, the Grey Seals at the adjacent haul-out have appeared not in the least bit perturbed – even if they were beginning to form dunes of their own as the windblown sand accumulated on the leeward side of their bodies.

In another frustrating week of odd-jobbing and catching up on some reading (some of it obligatory, and some of it actually interesting), I was pleased at least to get the ‘new’ windsurfing information sign installed. This is located at the end of Inch Road, Newburgh, a spot which gives a panoramic view of the lower estuary for our regular waterfowl counts, as well as being a popular launch site for watersports enthusiasts. For the Reserve staff, meeting the needs of both wildlife and human visitors on the Reserve is a perennial balancing act; providing information to visitors about responsible access is a key part of this.

The end of Inch Road was formerly a natural island in the estuary, and it has a long history of use and modification by people. The present-day road causeway is man-made, and the former island itself (now the parking area at the end of the road) carries the remains of various stone walls and structures. This means it’s a very difficult place to dig a decent post-hole for a sign, so I was forced to use some of the random bits of masonry littering the shoreline to form a stone ‘cairn’ around the base of the sign, lending it some extra stability. On lifting one particular stone from the top of the shore, a convention of tiny Shore Crabs scattered in all directions – see how many you can spot in the following photo…

I reckon a minimum of 14 – see the photo below. But even then, I wouldn’t be surprised if I’d missed one or two!

This was a vivid illustration of the richness of life in the Ythan Estuary. If there were that many Shore Crabs under one rock, how many must there be on the whole estuary? And that’s just one species: what about all the others – the multitude of molluscs, worms, shrimps, fish and so on? The numbers must be almost incomprehensible. Hardly surprising, then, that the estuary is both nationally and internationally important for the birds that feed upon this smorgasbord of life. All that mud, shingle, sand and water, though it may appear to our eyes a barren wasteland, is actually a precious and irreplaceable natural asset.

It’s no bad thing to be reminded every now and then – as if we needed a reminder – what an awesome local patch we have here at Forvie, even in the dull and dank days of winter. It’s a place simply bursting with life – whatever the weather!





































































































































































