The shifting sands at Forvie often give us a glimpse of what lies beneath them, be that a layer of shingle, animal bones, or simply rubbish (another person’s treasure?). But we rarely have the chance to investigate what this could tell us about the people and wildlife that have lived here over the years.

Last weekend, however, the University of Aberdeen’s Archaeology Department was on site for their Professional Archaeology fieldtrip which aims to give third-year students experience of working in the field. With their research permit and permissions from NatureScot in place, the team spent four days on the estuary excavating shell middens.
A midden refers to a waste heap, so a shell midden is an archaeological feature made up of discarded mollusc shells that have accumulated over time. There are numerous shell middens along the Ythan Estuary, mostly made up of mussel shells. You may have noticed some that are being naturally exposed through erosion by the river and tide.

When I visited the dig, I was surprised to find that the undulating ground I had walked past so often in the summer, while checking the ternery fence, was actually a series of shell middens. I guess it’s easy to overlook what you don’t know about!
The archaeologists kindly explained what was happening as students removed layers of sand and shell and carefully ‘cleaned’ potential features — traces of past human activity. Among them were cracked, blackened stones that might have been part of a fire pit used to steam mussels, either for food or possibly for bait. Studying the depth and contents of these middens gives us an insight into how people used this landscape and I’m looking forward to hearing what this latest dig uncovers!

The wind was characteristically ferocious that day and everyone was working in a line, hoods up and backs to the wind for a little shelter. It reminded me of the terns, which take the opposite approach on windy days, facing into the wind to avoid ruffled feathers! Fortunately, the sun was shining, but that did make photographing the test pits for the records a little tricky. After accidentally casting my shadow across a few photographs, I decided it was time to get out of the way and crack on with my seal count…

Some reading back in the warmth of the office informed me that, in 2010, the University of Aberdeen excavated a shell midden at Forvie with deposits around 35 metres long and 2.9 metres deep! Radiocarbon dating of the middens dated them to the early medieval period (Noble et al., 2017). It’s striking to think that people harvesting mussels here more than 1,000 years ago left such a lasting mark. I worry to think what evidence of our own impact will remain in another 1,000 years…
But conversations with the archaeologists made me wonder what the past can teach us about managing nature and resources better today. How much mussel harvesting was sustainable? Were there periods when the beds were left to recover? The Ythan Estuary was important for supplying mussels for fishing bait into the twentieth century. Today, its mussel beds remain a vital food source for wildlife, including the eiders — one of the protected bird species of the Ythan Estuary, Sands of Forvie and Meikle Loch.

The remainder of the week was pretty much business as usual, apart from a trip inland to give a talk about Forvie NNR to Huntly Probus Club. Some members had visited the reserve before and were keen to hear how things were going. The main feedback was that they hadn’t realised quite how much there is to see at Forvie — especially when you’re hurrying back to the car with a rain cloud rolling in (which I can sympathise with).
And it’s true – there is always more to see and learn here. I’m fortunate to be out on the reserve throughout the seasons, yet I am often reminded of what I have missed by keen-eyed visitors too! Sometimes it’s simply a matter of being in the right place at the right time. Earlier in the week, I was just as surprised to encounter a barnacle goose sitting on the beach as it was to see me. It wasn’t in any hurry to move though – perhaps it had only just arrived on migration from the arctic – so I gave it a wide berth and left it in peace.

With the wonderful sunshine this weekend, I have spent a lot of time out on the reserve chatting to visitors about the wildlife that calls this place home. Hopefully, sharing these stories helps us appreciate just how amazing – and precarious – nature can be, and why it’s worth doing the little things we can to look after it. After all, we’ve been sharing Forvie with wildlife for thousands of years!

Source: Gordon Noble, Joe Turner, Derek Hamilton, Lee Hastie, Rick Knecht, Lindsey Stirling, Oskar Sveinbjarnarson, Beth Upex & Karen Milek (2017): Early Medieval Shellfish Exploitation in Northwest Europe: Investigations at the Sands of Forvie Shell Middens, Eastern Scotland, and the Role of Coastal Resources in the First Millennium AD, The Journal of Island and Coastal Archaeology. DOI: 10.1080/15564894.2017.1329242.


































































































































